Citadel Shade Druchii Violet

Product Information

Somehow it took Games Workshop until the end of the 2010s to realize one important fact: People like pets. 40k saw the release of Kill Team: Rogue Trader, which included an extremely good boy, while Age of Sigmar has embraced Khornedogs, Gryph-Hounds, and Aetherwings for the Bloodbound and Stormcast factions. Where they’ve really outdone themselves is, as is so often the case, in Necromunda, where every gang has had an associated pet to accompany their gang leaders. Even Enforcers are getting in on the fun! Credit: Games Workshop I really just did a basecoat then wash then highlight with colors mixed with white for the most part. My stuff is mostly tabletop quality and I think this’ll be good enough for that. Fowler’s Method The other negative is, of course, the new pots. While the price has stayed the same, both new and old shades have been moved over to the 18ml Contrast-sized paints. Nothing avoids inflation (or shrinkflation, as it were).

A variety of Warhammer 40K vehicles can be shaded and given depth with the help of the adaptable hue Druchii Violet. Three automobiles listed below would look fantastic decorated in Druchii Violet:

Step 3: Mephiston Red layer along tops of arms and legs, face, and bottom 3/4 of wings. I did this as a series of lines going from top to bottom, overlapping and built up till it had pretty good coverage while still showing texture. Coat D'Arms match the OLD citadel colours (pre-1992) so there might be some difference. Shining gold has the most noticeable difference, Codex: Adeptus Custodes is full of insight into the Emperor’s glorious bananas, highlighting their nature, organization and secret wars, but if you want to read more, here are a few books we’d suggest that dive into greater detail on the Custodes.

Green Chitin and Cloth: – Wash with Terradon Turquoise. – Layer with Lupercal Green, leaving the deepest recesses. – Highlight with Kabalite Green, focusing on the raised areas of the cloth/carapace. – Edge Highlight with Sybarite Green – Edge Highlight any bladed/horned parts of the carapace with Dawnstone. (Larger areas of Chitin on Metamorphs/Purestrains, Patriarch can be carefully Drybrushed instead for a more naturalistic, less clean look). Paint pure white in the helmet lenses and tubes before glazing it with a light green. Tesseract glow would probably work well these days, I guess? The important thing is that Drukhari benefit from having one or two really bright details, and this was that. The next step is the real secret sauce. I created a reasonably dilute wash with a mix of Golden High Flow Acrylics Sepia (pretty much a more concentrated Agrax Earthshade), Golden High Flow Acrylics Dioxazine Purple, and the product formerly known as Future Floor Polish (Now Pledge Floor Care Finish, unless they’ve changed it again.) I wash the entire model in this color, removing excess where it pools too much. If you are working with Games Workshop paints, a mix of Druchii Violet, Agrax Earthshade and water/lahmian medium will work just fine. You will, however, be spending a lot more money to wash an entire army of Custodes using this method. At this point the gold is complete. It’s simple, but has a nice rich depth and purplish warmth to it. Layer Citadel Eidolon Purple Clear across the whole gem. The best way to work with this is to blob on a fair amount and then drag it out across the entire surface rather than doing multiple coats thus to ensure a even consistency. Richyp’s Wash ‘n Go Orks can have green skin and bleed red because the green pigment in their skin would absorb the red, leaving none to reflect off the underlying vasculature.Following the basecoat, I go into my first shade. For my shade, I use Guilliman Flesh Contrast Paint thinned down about 2:1 with Contrast Medium . In retrospect, I think this left the shade a bit too light and I had to hit some areas an extra time, so a 1:1 mix would also probably work. More washes. I want to retain a pale look, so I washed the flesh bits with a 50/50 mix of Agrax Earthshade and Druchii Violet, then I did a couple thin coats of Druchii Violet around the eyes and a ring of Nuln Oil to give the eyes a smoky, shadowy look on her face.

Lighten the Genestealer Flesh Mix with Pallid Wych Flesh (2:1) and layer carefully on raised areas. Next, I laid down some basic skin tones, ranging from Model Color Royal Purple (shadow), to Pink Horror (midtone), up to Kislev Flesh (highlight). It’s pretty desaturated at this point, but the gist is there. The lights are coated with Ushabti and then washed Iyanden, on larger things you can use Ushabti, Screaming Skull and White to do a lens effect implying the glass but that tends to be overkill on small models.Add dots of pure white over the previous steps. This is the bit where suddenly it looks like metal and it’s very satisfying. You really are aiming for small dots (unless it’s a vehicle then you can go for bigger patches. Reds Wash pink parts with a thin mix of Contrast Magus Purple/Contrast Medium, wash the blue parts with a thin mix of Contrast Akhelian Green, both focusing on the recesses. Call of Chaos by Rob Sanders follows a Slaaneshi warlord through an encounter with the Stormcast Eternals.

A good source for inspiration for Genecult colour schemes is to look at their tentacle-mawed gods’s own. After all, it’d make sense they wanna emulate the giant space bugs they’re desperately trying to summon right? The 2019 codex features 2 minor cults that do this with the Sons of Jormungandr and the Behemoid Undercult parroting the schemes for Hive Fleets Jormungandr and Behemoth respectively, with and this formed the basis for my own cult’s scheme based off the cold minty chitin of Hive Fleet Tiamet.

Armor

Thin layers of Basalt Grey were used to blend the shadows and highlights, smoothing the transitions. Bone is a wash of sepia over the zenithal, followed by agrax and then thinned wyldwood. The highlights are morghast and ushabti Spot detail on aprons with Blood for the Blood God – get a beat up brush, and just sort of smear it around For the main “green” I started off by airbrushing the whole model with P3 Gnarls Green. I really like P3 paints through an airbrush, they have very dense pigment counts which means you can thin them without losing any real opacity. I then highlighted quite heavily with P3 Iosan Green (aiming for everywhere that wasn’t recessed). Then I used Necrotite Green on the sharp points, the edges and the raised bumps of the models. Lastly I mixed Necrotite Green 50/50 with GW Flash Gitz Yellow and did a very sparing last highlight with that mix. Credit: Silks