2,5 Meters 98,42" Kitchen Worktop Profile Strip Corner PVC 33mm with Accessories Edging splashback TMW Profiles (Gray Aluminium, End caps (Left + Right))

Product Information

In fact, I wish I'd done this behind my hob two years ago. And instead of buying a grout impregnator, I found this free stone sealer sample from Eco Pro Tec perfect. It's not often when I hear about grout sealant. In fact, it's only ever been from a handful of my followers who do this for a living. The idea of sealing grout it to doubly make sure it's waterproof and prevent stains.

And my final tip on tile adhesive is that it's best to clean up as you go with a sponge of cloth. Also, try to clear the 2mm gaps as it takes AGES to remove carefully once dry. So where possible, why not two of you work on it at the same time? *Note I work alone as there's less arguments(!) SPREADING TILE ADHESIVE Firstly, always use tile spacers when tiling. They allow you to continue ensuring your tiling is level and even throughout. It can be scrubbed off, but it's very very tough. So here I used a plastic sheet with masking tape on a roll. Also, don't forget that stainless steel sinks still scratch.

Splashback Edging Trims

Then I cut my trim roughly down to size, leaving a cm or two extra. And with the remaining trim, I laid my new cut on top as below and drew along it for a visual. From doing tile research, I noticed some tile directly on to their worktop and others don't. I've done it both ways now. However, because I had a corner joint on my worktop that protrudes ever so slightly, I opted for spacers along the bottom.

If you have any questions, then feel free to drop me a comment below! More Fitting a Kitchen Projects

Similar products

First, I measured the gap left under my window sill and deducted a 2mm tile spacer gap. *Note, I could curse whoever installed this window sill as really, it isn't deep enough to hide the edges. So, I do plan to build the sill up later with a deeper lip. You can see above that I'm using a tile adhesive trowel. It should have teeth on it which looks quite notchy. Here, I'm starting where my centre line is, but making sure I only work with enough as I go. Mine probably had about 30 minutes working time before it set. You'll find tile adhesive can get everywhere. So it's a good idea to protect your surfaces, such as worktop and sink.

Also, AVOID scraping off with a filling knife or window scraper. Speaking from experience, it's far too easy to chip a tile, which you'll then need to replace. HOW DO I MIX GROUT? Then, after transferring your measurement to the tile, line the mark to the top of the tile cutter. And, starting from the bottom, gently push the handle down while moving forward to score the tile. And once you've got to the top, make sure the metal pressure piece is resting on the top edge of the tile. Then gently push down the handle until is cuts in half. Then continued laying the rest in a straight line as above. However, note I didn't go to the very end of the far left as I knew I needed to add trim behind it. Another tip is to mark with masking tape of which cut tile is which in case your cut was ever so slightly different. TILE AS USUALHowever, when faced with planning this awkward section of trim, I was relieved that this was the perfect solution. It was imperative I worked out exactly where to cut my length down So after marking a notch to cut around my upstand (far right), I poured water in the cutter and carefully cut. It's scary on the first go, but I fell in love almost immediately. Then tiled as usual. PREPPING FOR GROUTING I lined my first tile up with my centre pencil line, ensuring I left a slight gap for the spacer and pressed firmly on the wall. Once I cleaned up all my tiles, it was time to mix the grout. For this, I'm absolutely wearing gloves and eye protection as there's cement in it. And again, speaking from experience 2 years ago, CEMENT BURNS!