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Hoppers: The Cookbook from the Cult London Restaurant: Recipes, Memories and Inspiration from Sri Lankan Homes, Streets and Beyond (Hardie Grant, 1)

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Still unsure of the way in which he wanted to be involved in food, Karan moved to Cambridge to undertake a second law degree, which ultimately led to a job in a top London law firm.

Divide the dough into 8–9 balls and roll out into 15cm (6in) discs the thickness of two stacked one pound coins.I obviously hadn’t grown up there but there was a lot of that culture around me, I’d travelled there a lot and I just loved the food. Welcome to Hoppers, where the flavours, colours, aromas and sights transport you to the tropical warmth of Sri Lanka. It serves Sri Lankan food, a cuisine epitomised by tropical spice and sharing qualities with South Indian and Indonesian food. When Karan Gokani opened the first Hoppers in Soho in 2015 its impact was immediate, with the bijou restaurant on Frith Street lauded for its Sri Lankan and south Indian food that walked the perfect line between rustic and refined.

A passion for cooking doesn’t necessarily mean that someone is suited to a career as a professional chef. And it was during his time at university in India when he first worked in a professional kitchen, ‘it was just a summer job in a hotel kitchen,’ he explains, ‘but I realised early on that working in a kitchen permanently didn’t suit my personality. Weighing in at more than 350 pages it’s a hefty book considering the relatively tight menu served at the restaurants. The addition of fresh coconut keeps them juicy, while the onions add a beautiful sweetness when charred.Even as a practicing solicitor, Karan’s passion for food and hospitality never faded and he spent time in professional kitchens in his spare time. Hoppers The Cookbook​ is not just a showcase for Sri Lankan food but also for his restaurants and its understanding of hospitality, not only does it make you want to try the recipes, it also makes you want to make a reservation. Any changes made can be done at any time and will become effective at the end of the trial period, allowing you to retain full access for 4 weeks, even if you downgrade or cancel. In their praise of the book, Gokani is not only described as a “supremely talented” chef in the words of Jose Pizarro but also as one of the “best cooks I have ever encountered” according to restaurant reviewer Fay Maschler. This is then followed by chapters on rice and breads, hoppers, sambols, mallungs, chutneys and pickles; fries, curries and everything in between; grills, roasts, barbecue and more before desserts, drinks and garnishes are also given their dues.

In 2012, he left his legal career at a city law firm to pursue a career in hospitality, traveling across India and Sri Lanka to immerse himself in the food and culture of the countries. Initially, Karan moved back to London to work with JKS on some consultancy projects that they were involved in, but after a while his focus shifted fully towards the opening of his first Sri Lankan restaurant with JKS, having landed on the name Hoppers, ‘the idea was always for it to be a no reservation restaurant with small sharing tables,’ says Karan, ‘the idea being that no matter what walk of life you’re from, you’d come in, share a table and leave not just remembering the food but also remembering the conversation you had with your neighbour and the team who looked after you.The Financial Times and its journalism are subject to a self-regulation regime under the FT Editorial Code of Practice.

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