Stephenson Melt And Pour Soap Base Clear SLS FREE - 1Kg

Product Information

First and foremost, if you’re looking to make clear soap, it’s essential to start with a high-quality clear melt and pour soap base. This is the foundation of your recipe, so it’s crucial to choose the right one. When shopping for a soap base, look for a product specifically labeled as clear. This ensures that your soap will have a translucent appearance, giving it that beautiful transparent quality. Avoid bases that have a yellowish or cloudy tint, as this can affect the clarity of your final product. Place as much soap base as you need into a heatproof container to melt it. I use a pint jar. Place the jar in a pan of hot water to melt, stirring occasionally. When melted, take the jar out of the water and place it on a cloth. Add a few drops of food coloring if desired. Stir well. Add more if needed. Next, add the essential or fragrance oil a few drops at a time. A 4-ounce bar should have about 10 drops of scent. Add any dried herbs you may desire, about a teaspoon per 4-ounce bar. The addition of extra ingredients is more leisurely using this method, as continuous low heat is available to keep the mixture from forming a skin. Again, be careful not to introduce bubbles if at all possible. Fragrance should be the last addition, as heat will cause some evaporation. Again, work on around 20ml of fragrance or essential oil per Kilo for a meaningful fragrance. There are soft forms of Melt & Pour soap bases available (often known as bath butter or 'ice cream' soap), which can be piped like a cream icing when warm, which can be used to great effect when 'decorating' soap 'cakes'.

When cool, remove from the mold. Wrap soap in plastic wrap or wax paper. You must wrap it right away or it may collect moisture from the air and bead “sweat” on the surface.Results: The most crystal clear soap. Must wrap right after unmolding because of the high amount of solvents. Not the best lather when unmolded but it will probably improve a bit. Safety Warning: If you try this process be sure to have plenty of air circulation and avoid open flames because of the alcohol evaporation. You don’t want the fumes catching on fire. When working with sodium hydroxide wear safety gear including goggles and gloves. There is no such thing as a one-size-fits-all body soap, as the best soap brand for you depends on your specific skin concerns. However! You should keep a few things in mind when trying to decide what kind of soap to get for your shower: Skip the sulfates

Tip... To avoid 'bleeding' of colours into each-other, use a 'pigments' rather than dyes. Pigments have a larger particle size and are generally not water soluble, so will not bleed their colour. Alternatively, choose a specific colouring system like Zenicolour 5, made for the purpose.Okay, so if you’ve been in the soap making groups on Facebook lately, you’ve seen all of the transparent soaps that makers have been posting! Quite impressive! I’ve made transparent soap before, but nothing as clear as what we’ve been seeing lately. Use your transparent soap as-is or use for embeds! Here is what mine looks like. Not perfect, but I love it!

Isopropyl – Isopropyl is also commonly called rubbing alcohol. It comes in different strengths, from 50%, 70% and 90%. Like I said, isopropyl doesn’t seem to be the best in transparent soap but it is cheaper than ethyl and does work. Use the highest strength that you can find. For batch #5 I bumped up the solvents quite a bit! I also reversed my stearic and coconut amounts, using more coconut than stearic. Let’s see what happens. The simplest technique is to colour a small amount of opaque soap base and pour it into a shallow mould. Once set, cut into small chunks or flakes. Make up a complimentary coloured batch of clear soap base. Place the chunks in the mould for the final soap and pour the second, clear soap into the mould over the opaque chunks. This gives a simple and effective appearance to an otherwise plain bar. Because this soap contains a high amount of sugar and glycerin, it is best if stored wrapped in plastic wrap or shrink wrap. If you don’t, your soap can sweat and even grow crystals. Glycerin likes to draw moisture from the air into the soap and can create a sweaty mess. ProcessThis is the same as batch #1, but I did add sugar solution. I used raw sugar, which definitely tints it more yellow compared to regular white sugar. This is where I started. I didn’t have a good alcohol, only 70% isopropyl so didn’t expect super clear soap. I wanted to try it without a sugar solution. In the shower or bath, wet your hands and rub your soap in them to create a lather. Wash your hands first, then repeat the process and apply soap to your whole body using the soap directly and your hands. You may also wash your face with it. Rinse hands and body abundantly. Also wash your soap from lather before placing it in your soap dish or bag saver.

Step 4– Weigh out the stearic acid + about 10 extra grams. Melt using a double boiler on the stove. Now pour your glycerin soap into the molds. If the base cools too much and gets chunky or stiff, remelt it and stir. Let the molds sit until the soap is completely cool. For more vibrant, stable colors, go for mineral colorants: ultramarines, iron or chromium oxides. These mineral colorants for soap making are still considered natural ingredients, even though they are manufactured to make the minerals safe (by removing harmful heavy metals). Some recipes use oils as addictives (superfat). With this, I did have bad experiences, with the oils separating from the soap base, therefore, I don’t advise it. If you make the soap base at home, add your superfat when making the soap. Use Mendrulandia soap calculator to adjust oils and lye water quantities. However, my soap base recipes already have a superfat of 5%, so you don’t really need to worry about it. If you are purchasing your soap base, follow the manufacturer’s instructions about addictives, and see if you can add an oil or butter. Is it perfectly clear? No. But I was tired of cooking it at this point! lol I declared it ready for the next step. Cover to prepare your sugar solution.Melt & Pour soap can be whipped into a smooth mousse-like substance whilst still quite hot, using an electric hand-whisk, then used as a convincing 'icing' on soap cakes or other toiletries like bath bombs. Simply spoon the whipped soap over the area to be covered and spread if required. Make sure to do this before it starts to set-up. The 'iced' surface can easily be decorated before it forms a skin, with glitter or flower petals etc.. So, I got experimenting! I was inspired by a post in our soapmaking group, Saponification Nation, by Harriet Pretzsch. She generously shared her procedure for making a cold process transparent soap. You can find it on her blog here. You’ll have to translate it or join our FB group and search her name…you’ll find it translated.