Pledge 11182 Revive It Floor Gloss, 27 Ounce, Clear Transparent Liquid

Product Information

Here's what I used , no voodoo even the brush is an old Humbrol " sable" that i normally use for dusting. I would venture you have a slightly duff bottle. I would persevere and get some of the liquitex and start at a ratio of 1:20 neat and its should start behaving like this. Hope thats bit more useful than the usual " I use it everyday then wash my cat in it afterwards and it works brilliant, see." type of reply with no evidence. Lots of folk spray Future/Pledge/Klear and if you google you'll find lots of articles and happy users but they seem to be folk who are quite advanced in their skills , so its definitely do-able but your airbrush-fu must be strong as they say in Beijing. Re brushes, I only use them to create naff expressionist art and paint walls , so nothing to add here. What I would say is it made negligible difference applying onto an Oldsmobile body I painted with Halford car paint 20 years ago. However, on my test subject it worked remarkably well. I hand painted the Hurricane (apologies it is not a car!) in Tamiya acrylics then hand painted the Pledge over the top a day later, doing a Vallejo paints wash 2 hours later to bring out the panel lines.

Any chance of pictures to show this and equipment you're using?...A little evidence goes a long way. I never believe any internet content unless I can see the evidence of the results and the actual tools /materials in the possession of the person giving said advice. Does it need to be thinned with water or something, longer drying time etc? I'm genuinely confused so any pointers would be appreciated. RE the brush painting, as I said I don't do any apart from detail touch ups ( and 1/72 pilots of late!) but would add you're never really going to come close to airbrushing using a brush unless you're @PlaStix who may be the person to answer your brushed gloss coat issues. I just give away my models to anyone in the neighborhood who might want them. I keep a few that I really like on the outer edges of my built-in bookshelf and on one little table I bought to display my larger ships (now hosting my Cutty Sark) but I don't have much room for permanent display so I just add what I like at the moment and give away ones that I've enjoyed long enough. It's the process I enjoy ... learning how to get better at this hobby that keeps me in it. Not that I don't enjoy looking at some of what I've built, I do for those that turn out alright - not so much the one's I've messed up .The ratios are purely trial and error. I would always err on as little IPA as possible to start if using a brush-if your paint is acrylic the IPA will melt that effortlessly. My initial mix was for airbrush, If I was brushing, 80 Pledge:15 IPA 5 Glycerin. If your paint coats are acrylic ( eg,Tamiya X/XF) then minimise your brush strokes, it should self level when you get the proportions right. The more you work the IPA in the more the colour coats will start to dissolve. X-22 can be thinned in a few ways, to include Tamiya acrylic thinner, Tamiya lacquer thinner, Mr Leveling thinner, hardware store lacquer thinner, isopropyl alcohol or denatured alcohol. The amount is according to what you want to accomplish. So with all that said, I generally use either hardware store lacquer thinner or DNA. And I generally thin it no less than 50-50 ( in the paint world that means 100% reduction or equal volumes of each). I generally don't thin it more than 125% which is a bit more than 50/50 thinner to paint. It's something you play around with and get a handle on doing for yourself. Ive used Future as my go to gloss since the mid 90s when I started noticing decals solution interaction with Testors rattlecan stuff. I started to see stains/tide marks under the topcoat from where the solutions had been. Light at first, but visible enough to be noticed. So then I tried Micro Gloss and Micro Flat. The gloss worked great, but the flat coat gave me problems and I did not have the patience at the time to work thru the problems, so I ditched the stuff, then switched to Future and various bottled flat/matt and satin/semi gloss coats as needed. Currently my go to flat coats are: Humbrol, Tamiya, or Future with Tamiya Flat base added.

B: Second thing I noticed was that its not drying to a consistent finish. I tried a hair dryer to see how long it would take, and some patches of the coated area went more satin, and others more gloss. Giving it an almost patchy appearance. My first pass as promised: did panel on left with some added liquitex retarder/flow improver ( as I know its got glycerin in it and isn't just weak detergent) and on the right, straight from the bottle The Johnson Future product (or any of its previous incarnations) has not been available in my country at all. After a lot of digging around online and in hardware stores here in New Zealand, I discovered that there were many floor cleaning products but actual floor polish seemed to be absent. Eventually I found one large hardware chain that sold its own brand of floor polish, so I bought some to try. In the bottle it is a milky colour, but it promised a clear shine, so I tentatively tested it on a model I was building. It was great! It dried to a clear hard finish, though not super glossy, and I've used it ever since. It worked a treat allowing relatively easy wiping off of excess panel wash and also gave the plane a high gloss finish. After a panel wash application a matt clear coat could dumb this down (yet to try).

Contact

First off , Klear/Mission acrylic/Alclad aqua et al dont need ammonia to clean them out of an airbrush , 99.9% IPA will do the job fine after a good rinse and spray through with hot water and detergent. As my brushes are on the expensive side, 5 minutes in an ultrasonic cleaner with detergent/water guarantees no nasties left behind, that and the amount of neat cellulose thinner/gun cleaner going through them regularly will shift anything... I mean, I never sprayed the previous stuff through my airbrush given that ammonia seemed to be the only guaranteed means of cleaning it out and not risking destruction of the airbrush itself. When using the old stuff I just used a soft brush. However, when trying this with the new stuff, it was leaving brush marks instead of self-leveling and then it was drying to an inconsistent finish. The only difference was in the product rather than the application, and where the old stuff was more like milk, the new stuff is like unthinned Tamiya paint. It doesn't seem to flow or lay down as well and even days after application (while dry) doesn't look to have dried the same way, offering a collage of satin and glossy patches.