Spyderco Knife Sharpener Tri-angle Sharpmaker Used to Sharpen Hunting Knives & Self Sharpening Knife by Using Ceramic Knife Sharpening Stone

Product Information

Re-Profiling is when you change or repair the 'little' bevel angle. That's the bevel that does the cutting. Spyderco strive to supply knives with a 30deg inclusive bevel but as you may imagine ... different factories, different sharpening methods and numerous other variables means the bevel may not necessarily be 30deg. in my experience some knives will have a more obtuse angle perhaps 40deg. So when you re-profile you regrind that 'little' bevel to the angle of your choice.

I will constantly be updating this first post, so that you won't have to read through the entire thread to absorb all the advice. In addition to a text list, there will be tutorial videos at the end of the post. When I’m using a fine micron bench stone and hit a rough spot it feels like a boulder. I can even tell by the feeling and sound when I burr is getting close. You don’t get this with the sharp maker. Just to make it even clearer for those who might be totally new to sharpening and the sharpmaker: What Bloke is saying basically: You need to follow the "curve" / belly of the edge when sharpening on the sharpmaker, and by doing so lift the handle of the knife in the process.That's a shame, but I can kind of relate because I didn't like beer the first time I tried it. :rolleyes: Lubricant in my experience is somewhat of a personal preference item, there are tons of good ones out there (and bad ones too) -- ones to perhaps do a little research on would be "Nano-Oil" or "Liberty Oil Products" I'm sure lots of folks have other suggestions, those two are just the ones I use frequently. I occasionally get questions from readers about sharpening: what my “system” is, what products I recommend for sharpening, how I sharpen my knives, etc.

In using the Spyderco Sharpmaker you’ll be astonished at how easy it is and how seriously sharp you can get your blades. I have used it for both gentle touch ups as well as full on re-grindings (using the diamond rod – see later) in some cases. What’s nice is that Spyderco bundles some really comprehensive instructions with this kit that include illustrations too.

Spyderco Sharpmaker Review – Final Thoughts

I was also told about the Work Sharp precision adjust sharpener, but it looks like you can only use their proprietary stones and it kinda seems like cheap Walmart crap vs something that I could use for years. Good lighting and 10x-15x loop will easily show the small burr which is very difficult to see unaided. Bezween the too, as regular EDC I personally would take the Delica - just cause I slightly prefer the a bit "heavier" feel in hand as well as having color choices and better custom scale options. In my understanding: WHENEVER you cut something, obviously you start with the apex and move the knife into the material (so in a way the material goes towards the spine...)

Edge leading strokes use a motion like you are trying to slice slivers off your stones with your knife. NOTE: When new, the brown/grey stones have a slight glaze that initially slows the cutting down. This glaze will wear through after a few sharpening sessions, but you can rub the two new stones together to speed this up and improve the cutting performance sooner.)Many believe that the need for diamond/CBN stones really presents itself when trying to achieve very fine finishes. A vanadium carbide is 1-2 microns and the brown/medium rods are 15 micron, the white/fine rods are 6 micron and the white/ultra fine are 3 micron. Carbide content will matter as well but in general you are not really trying to sharpen the carbides themselves until you get to a very fine abrasive. The 15 micron abrasive is just abrading the entire carbide out of the matrix. As you get to finer abrasives like the UF you are burnishing the carbides and plowing them through the matrix. Again, the volume of them will effect this and S30V will tolerate ceramic abrasives better than S110V. I knew your vid already before, tried your method with the just one sharpmaker rod, and prefer it over the method shown in the sharpmaker instructional DVD (which I just watched again, had already forgotten many of the things said there) The Sharpmaker and Spyderco ceramic bench stones are excellent and I have used them for almost 30 years. Be careful not to press to hard and use too long or you will easily form a tough small burr, then complain it does not work very well on the newest tool steels. Also get a clamping system you like to hold the unit solid on a table or workbench. I found that makes all the difference in the world if you have both hands free while working with the Sharpmaker.