LIGHTWEIGHT 25.4mm BICYCLE ALLOY SEATPOST SADDLE STEM 300mm LONG

Product Information

Can’t understand that much of a mismatch. I value quality and precision over quantity, but it seems that many manufacturers have a different view on that. No other explanation comes to mind. The Cirrus KINEKT 2.1 is an aluminum suspension seatpost that’s designed to isolate your body from surface vibrations and impacts to improve comfort and control. Each post comes with two extra springs so you can mix and match, creating a custom experience. The KINEKT post springs are available in five color-coded tensions for riders ranging from 50-320 pounds.

Seatposts by nature are simple beasts. Dropper posts notwithstanding, the clamp is the only mechanism. Most posts have adopted versions of the same system for years, with a variation in the number of bolts often the only difference. The NCX seatpost features a patented parallelogram design that Suntour claims works well for small bump compliance. The post has a total of 50mm travel and was designed with low maintenance and long term durability in mind.Enve's 2nd generation head is better than the old one but still not that good IMO, and it's expensive, overpriced as most things Enve. When engaged, the suspension linkage compresses a steel spring inside the post’s column that’s sandwiched in between two plastic spacers. All of these innards are compressed against a hollow plastic pipe that seats against a threaded preload screw at the bottom of the post. Redshift also includes a smaller, secondary internal spring to provide additional firmness, depending on your desired ride feel. The photo sequence above shows me sitting on it set up out of the box—main spring only, with preload somewhere in the middle—with its sag affected by only my weight (about 175lbs). It works a treat. You get two upper clamps so you can run 7x9mm carbon rails or 7mm round alloy rails. The lower clamp can be reversed depending on your desired saddle angle in relation to your frame’s geometry. Once the saddle rails have been inserted in between these two clamps it's just a case of tightening the titanium bolts with a 4mm allen key. Micro adjustments are possible once the saddle is pretty much in place: tightening the front bolt will lower the saddle, while tightening the rear will raise it. Continuing their 20-year suspension seatpost legacy, Cane Creek recently announced the all-new, fourth generation Thudbuster ST (Short Travel). Designed with touring, commutes, and e-bike trips in mind, it features 50mm of travel—up from 33mm on the original Thudbuster ST—to smooth out bumps and bounces on multi-surface rides. Building on the original Thudbuster’s parallel linkage, it also got a redesign for a higher rider weight limit (now up to 330 pounds), increased durability, and more travel. But bikes and bike parts are more than just functional items. We’re drawn to bicycles and components that not only appear to fit our performance criteria but also our eye. Enve makes lovely looking parts, including this seatpost, that no doubt provide joy to those who shell out their hard-earned cash for them. And in the end, it’s hard to argue against that. Specs

while going a bit too wide would call for some more grinding – but it’s probably a safer way to go (“measure three times, cut once” is a local saying). All seatposts clamp to the saddle in their own unique way, and have different methods of allowing the saddle to point slightly down, slightly up or remain flat. Reviewing bike parts is somewhat subjective. So to better try and evaluate the performance of the Enve seatpost, I swapped in another expensive carbon seatpost by way of comparison. I did this again with a high-end aluminium model. It can be seen from picture 2 that the seatpost is marked as 31.6 mm wide (and 410 mm long), while it really measures only 31.42 mm. This means the seatpost will probably not fit firmly enough to stay in place inside a seat tube meant for 31.6 mm wide seatposts. Always measure! 🙂

The results were as I might have expected. All the posts performed really well. All of them helped reduce chatter. The carbon posts had a little more ‘give’ in them. But ultimately it would be tough to say that any of them outperformed the other by any serious margin. Value To help prevent mistakes when purchasing or changing seatposts, this article explains what kinds of seatpost diameters are most commonly used and how they are measured. Only diameter (width) is dealt with here. The length of the seatpost depends on frame geometry (design) and size – i.e. how much the saddle needs to be raised from the end of the seat tube. A separate article explains the maximum amount of seatpost extension from the frame (minimal insertion length). For seatpost height in terms of bicycle fitting, see: Setting up comfortable riding position. The first bicycle frames were made mostly from steel, with steel tubes of a standard (outer) diameter. The British and Italian standard diameter for seat tubes was 1 1/8″ (28.6 mm). Older French bicycles used 28 mm tubing. Old US bicycles (mostly BMX and older bikes that used one-piece cranks) was 1″ (25.4 mm). The FSA SL-K head is harder to adjust precisely and it's heavy. FSA K-Force is lighter and has a similar 2 bolt design to the Save and exists in 25.4 but may be harder to find.

One thing I really liked about the Kinekt is the saddle rail clamp. It has two simple screws to tighten and adjust the saddle. There’s a spring that keeps tension to separate the lower and upper plate. This self-fixes the nuts into place so you don’t have to hold them while loosening or tightening the plate into place. A nice touch. If you use a carbon seatpost, make sure to fit it using a thin layer of carbon paste as this stops it slipping. Pay attention to the quoted torque at which you should tighten the bolt - overdoing it can cause it to snap. If you don't own a torque wrench already, here you can find our recommendations for the best torque wrenches for bikes.

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Measuring a seat tube diameter is often necessary before purchasing, or changing the seatpost. How should one do that? Three methods will be explained here, but one can always be creative. 🙂 Painting, or chrome plating could also be done – just take it into account when machining to not have the new seatpost too narrow, or too wide. Similarly, if you ride a very small frame size and intend to have the saddle quite low, make sure there's nothing obstructing a longer seatpost from slotting in. However, whilst you can always cut a seatpost that's too long, you can't add to the length if it's too short. If you find any other mistakes, feel free to note them. I try to keep this as correct, and up-to-date as possible. Seatpost diameters are usually a multiple of 0.2 mm (but not always, as tables 1 and 2 show). If a measured value differs and most closely matches a value that is not a multiple of 0.2, there is a high probability that the closest multiple of 0.2 mm size will fit. For example, a measured 25.5 will most probably fit a 25.4 mm wide (nominal and measured width) seatpost. A rule of thumb is that the widest post that slides in without being forced (other than pushing or twisting by hand) is the right one. If it drops in, with play, before the pinch bolt is tightened, the seatpost is probably too narrow.